Ottoman literature and court music were mostly religious, and both
sound pompous and lugubrious to
Western ears. Visual arts were curtailed by the Muslim dictum that forbids
representation of any
being 'with an immortal soul', so Islamic artists tended to the
non-representative arts. Turkish
museums are full of delicate coloured tiles, graceful glass vases, carved
wooden mosque doors,
glittering illuminated Korans, intricate jewellery and sumptuous costumes.
Atatürk changed Turkey's
cultural picture overnight, encouraging representative painting,
sculpture, literature, western
music (he loved opera), dance and drama. The introduction of a new
Latin-based Turkish alphabet
brought literacy within reach of many more citizens and Ottoman courtly
prose gave way to use of the
vernacular. Several Turkish writers, including Nazim Hikmet, Yashar Kemal
and Orhan Pamuk have met
with critical and popular acclaim in Turkey and further afield. Recently,
Ottoman arts such as paper
marbling and shadow-puppet plays have been enjoying a resurgence.
Carpet-weaving is still a Turkish
passion.
Music
Folk music was (and still is) sprightly. Türkü music, of which you'll
hear lots on the radio, is
traditional folk music with a modern urban slant. The 1000-year-old
tradition of Turkish troubadours
has been wiped out by TV and cassettes, but the songs of the great
troubadours are still popular and
often performed and recorded. The Turkish film industry began early, was
fiesty through the 1920s,
expanded rapidly after WWII and delved into social and political issues
through the 1960s and 70s.
Turkish cinema is characterised by honesty, naturalism and dry humour.
Directors to look out for
include the fiery Yilmaz Güney, Tunç, Basaran, Zülfü and Ömer Kavur.
Language
Although Turkish is an elegantly simple language, the rules of word
order and verb formation are
very different from Indo-European languages, making it somewhat difficult
to learn. Verbs can be so
complex that they constitute whole sentences in themselves - try this one
on for size:
Afyonkarahisarlilastiramadiklarimizdanmisiniz? ('Aren't you one of those
people whom we tried -
unsuccessfully - to make resemble the citizens of Afyonkarahisar?') It's a
lot easier to ask where
the toilets are!
Customs
Turkey is 99% Muslim, predominantly Sunni with some Shiites and Alevis
in the east and southeast.
Many Turkish customs and practices are derived from Islamic practices.
Etiquette demands that you
wear modest clothing and remove shoes when visiting mosques. In areas not
frequented by tourists (or
anywhere you feel that conservative Islamic vibe) women should have head,
arms and shoulders
covered, and wear modest dresses or skirts, preferably reaching to the
knees. Avoid visiting mosques
at prayer time or on Friday, the Muslim holy day. Other Turkish customs
are generally to do with
little politeness - even Turks complain how one can't even get out the
door without 5 minutes of
formulaic civilities - but attempts to join in with these vestiges of
courtly customs will delight
your Turkish hosts.
Many women complain about verbal and physical harassment in Turkey.
Although it's not necessary to
be paranoid and let stupid hassles ruin your trip, it's as well to take a
few precautions. At the
very least, keep your torso, legs and upper arms covered, especially as
you travel farther east. You
might also consider wearing a wedding ring. When walking, look purposeful,
ignore catcalls and steer
clear of lonely streets after dark. When eating out alone, ask for the
aile salonu (family dining
room). Going out drinking by yourself is basically stupid.
Food & Drinks
Bring your belly to Turkey - it will thank you. Shish kebab
(skewer-grilled lamb) is a Turkish
invention and you'll find kebapçis everywhere. Lamb and fish (which can be
expensive) dishes are the
restaurant staples. If you're scrimping, the best cheap and tasty meal is
Turkish pizza. Eggplant is
the number one vegetable: look out for imam bayildi ('the priest
fainted'), a delicious stuffed
eggplant dish. Desserts are sweet (often honey-soaked) and tend to
incorporate fruit, nuts and
pastry in tempting combinations. Vegetarians aren't much catered for, but
you'll never starve -
making an entire meal from magnificent meze (hors d'oeuvres) is easy. The
national drink is çay
(tea). Beer is served almost everywhere and Turkish wines are cheap and
surprisingly good. Raki, an
aniseed-flavoured grape brandy, is the knockout tipple of choice.
Dances
Have a look at this pdf-file for information about the dance
Iste Hendek
To read the file you need the free software Adobe Reader from
Adobe or another pdf-viewer.
The Adobe Reader you can find on the homepage from
Adobe under Support -
Downloads.
National Anthem
To listen the national anthem click
here.
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